Hatanaka

One thing that is hard to get outside Japan is tempura at this level, unlike sushi. So each time I come I try to eat at a high end place like this. Last time it was the one in Ginza famous for rejecting a certain POTUS (TA wil reject this review if I state the name). Well, I can say this blows tha...t out of the water. Our group of 4 were the only guests on a Monday evening so we had Chef Hatanaka-san’s undivided attention. He prepares all the ingredients himself, ensures the batter is the right consistency then fries them to his satisfaction. Condiment options are lime juice, salt (from Okinawa) and tempura sauce with lots of freshly grated radish. Several times he will suggest which pairing works best; he is usually spot on. Our 2.5 hour extravaganza was something like 15 courses ending with a tempura rice bowl (a green tea soup option was offered which was very interesting). The highlights were prawn legs, eggplant (brinjal/ aubergine) and asparagus done two ways. Every piece was excellent, but my raves are related to the artisanal feeling I got from the sublime experience, my exhilaration dimmed by the realisation that Hatanaka-san, at 66 yrs, will only be able to carry on a few more years. Where are the next generation of Japanese masters? That is why I am posting this review as I want everyone to experience this level of skill before it disappears for good. Not gatekeeping this!

Visited November 2024

Tucked in a narrow side street close to Azabu-juban station is tempura perfection. This is a tiny 12 seat restaurant with a modest illuminated sign that reads tempura in kanji. As aways in Japan, try to sit at the counter to see Hatanaka-san preform if magic and to allow him to serve the meal stra...ight to your plate and pace the meal to your speed. The surprising twist is that Hatanaka-san prefers and serves several different types of salt to the standard tempura sauce.. My preference is for Hiroshima salt. Next time you are in Tokyo, Hatanaka is well worth a visit.

Visited April 2016

Two choices of sets at 8500 and 10500 yen. Very intimate environment with a husband and wife team. Excellent value in comparison with the micheline rated tempura restaurant in Ginza.

This tiny tempura restaurant is well worth a visit. It seats a maximum of 14 people, ten around the counter. The chef prepares live fish and delicate vegetables in front of you in a sequence only known to him! One asparagus is cut into three and kissed with delicate batter before being cooked ...in three ways. The meal is as fresh as it is possible to be, and the chef purported to be one of the best in the world. It is an entertainment as well as a meal. You have to reserve in advance.

Visited March 2014