Narikura

1年前、南阿佐ヶ谷にある「成蔵」を訪問しました。オーナーの三谷成藏氏は、新橋の老舗「燕楽」で修行後、高田馬場で独立。現在の店舗は令和元年に移転オープンした新しい建物で、落ち着いた住宅街にあります。 成蔵の最大の特徴は、低温でじっくり揚げることで実現する白い衣と軽やかな食感。衣には糖度を4分の1にした特製パン粉を使用し、素材の旨味を引き出す調理法が唯一無二です。 この日は「TOKYO-Xリブロースかつ（200g）」と「ささみかつ」を注文。リブロースかつは厚切りながら火入れが絶妙で、脂の甘みと旨味が広がります。衣はサクッと崩れ、塩のみでいただくことで肉本来の味が際立ちました。ささみかつは淡白な...がらもしっとりと柔らかく、上品な旨味が印象的です。 高田馬場時代からさらに進化したと感じる仕上がりで、今まで訪れたとんかつ店の中でも群を抜く完成度でした。予約はやや取りづらいものの、再訪したいと思える一軒です。 About a year ago, I visited Narikura, a renowned tonkatsu (Japanese breaded pork cutlet) restaurant in Minami-Asagaya. Owner-chef Seizo Mitani trained at the famous Enraku in Shinbashi before opening his own shop in Takadanobaba. In 2019, the restaurant moved to its current location, a modern building in a quiet residential area. Narikura is best known for its unique method of deep-frying at a low temperature to create a distinctive white crust with a light, crisp texture. The coating uses specially crafted panko breadcrumbs with reduced sugar content, allowing the natural flavors of the meat to shine. On my visit, I ordered the TOKYO-X rib roast cutlet (200g) and a chicken tenderloin (sasami katsu). The rib roast was thick yet perfectly cooked, releasing a rich sweetness and umami from the fat. The crust broke apart delicately, and enjoying it simply with salt highlighted the pork’s natural taste. The chicken tenderloin was moist, tender, and elegantly flavored, offering a refined contrast to the richer rib roast. Compared to its days in Takadanobaba, I felt the craftsmanship had evolved even further. This remains one of the finest tonkatsu experiences I’ve ever had. Although reservations can be challenging, I would gladly return for another unforgettable meal.

Visited September 2024

We were 15 mins late for my reservation time due to confusion of the locale. We were rejected to dine in and were asked to leave by the chef despite the other seats were partially empty. However, we successfully manage to ask them to give us the meal for to-go. We totally understand that rules are... rules so we have no problem being refused to dine in. However, while we were waiting for the food, my friend and I were , again , rejected to use the toilet by the , again, chef. We felt like being treated like a homeless although we already paid bill. The chef is an egoist , cruel , shameless for treating customers such ways. Their Tongkatsu was delicious. Still. there are tons of other mouth-watering fried pork in Tokyo where chefs would treat their customer with respect.

Visited May 2023