鯛塩そば灯花・本店

The tsukemen in this super classy joint is another little masterpiece of craftsmanship, a whole new world. Thinner type of noodle for a tsukemen, but you wouldn’t want the thick type for such a light broth. It does feel like it is more powerful than their conventional ramen broth, especially being o...n the salty side. With floating chrysanthemum petals, nanoscopic bits of paprika or chillies and some pieces of charsiu, it is indeed delicious, the type of broth you would not want to leave any in the bowl, but I regret profoundly I did not take the ochazuke (seasoned rice set), which I will take next time I come to Tai Shio Soba Touka, whether with conventional ramen or tsukemen. Ochazuke would have given great balance to the saltiness and an excellent wrap-up to this formidable lunch. The noodle and the whole experience are made even better with a dollop of a dark mustard-looking novel ingredient that I had to ask the chef what it was. He explained to me it was bainiku (“plum meat”/sour plum concentrate), a paste of umeboshi that gives a great fruity sourness and tartness. For me, it was a very clever addition, indeed a whole new world, a new fantastic point of view, with every turn a surprise. Unbelievable tastes, indescribable feeling, I can come back to this non-hyped store to crush more bowls anytime. One extra point for these guys at Tai Touka is the choice of the delicious flat/Italian parsley for their garnish, as opposed to so many unfortunate chefs these days who elect the evil weed coriander. No one to tell us “no”, or where to go, take me wonder by wonder on a magic ramen ride. Well done, gentlemen!

March 2020に訪問

There’s a long-feature documentary on some of the best ramen in Japan (“Ramenheads”) currently running on Singapore Airlines and ANA. It features this shio-ramen specialized shop in Shinjuku and, given the proximity and ease to reach, I gave it a try. At 7:30 on a Saturday night it was busy, but no ...lines outside. Machine tickets and limited options for the ramen itself, which comes as the chef visualized, perhaps for the better. I knew this was a crystal-clear soup based on a salt & Tai (鯛 / Japanese Sea Bream) broth and I had little expectations that it would impress me, as an enthusiast of thick tonkotsu broths. And I did feel like the critic character on “Ratatouille”, almost losing my balance when I tasted this wonderful broth for the first time. Never had I had such a lovely fish soup before. Away from being fishy or pungent, it was delicate, thin, umami and savory. Clear as spring. Noodle neatly tucked in a folded manner, appearing to be stuck, but perfectly loose. The dish is nicely presented. On top of this soup and noodle there is a slice of charsiu, a teaspoon of chives, a lovely kamaboko-looking garnish in the shape of a sakura, beautifully coloured, and the rinds of yuzu citrus. The garnish is not kamaboko, but some type of aromatic mochi rice cake. Beautiful to adorn the presentation and the taste. Charsiu is tender, still turfy, breaking down the marineness of the dish, but far from being gamey. The ramen tamago was sweet, umami and perfectly cooked. Yolk a little bit on the harder side, but just as well, as not to spoil this masterpiece of a broth. Best shio ramen ever. But BY FAR THE BEST.

August 2018に訪問